There are sources for acquiring the moulding for making a frame. You can firstly begin with a directly piece of timber, and the usage of a domestic routing system make your personal moulding shape with a rebate to take the paintings. Alternatively you can select from a big variety of geared up finished mouldings to be had from your local body save or hardware keep. I recommend the latter. It’s simpler, the choice is tons wider, and it’s more price powerful. However, one phrase of warning. Always search for a moulding with a great immediately lower back and now not too flat at the floor. If the moulding has a bump or some raised segment in the top floor it’ll reduce and be a part of less difficult than a flat moulding. Most mouldings are crafted from pine or obeche. These are gentle grain timbers and cut and be a part of properly. Hard timbers like ramin are greater difficult to paintings with.
Measuring and Cutting
How a whole lot moulding will you need? The out of doors dimensions of the body are determined by way of the dimensions of the mounted picture. Carefully degree the overall length of the raveled photograph you are framing, adding a bit more (three-smm) for “play” to make sure the image suits without problems into the completed body.
Add the period and the breadth together, then double the whole. This will give you the general period. But you furthermore may need to permit for the mitre cuts, so multiply the width of the moulding by 10 and add this for your total (overall period required = 2 x (period + breadth) + 10 x width of moulding). The forty five mitre cuts are maximum important – a bad reduce will by no means be a part of nicely and could usually look horrible. There are a number of machines available on the market for reducing 45 diploma mitres starting with the easy mitre field, radial arm saw with a mitre attachment, or a commercial mitre saw (see picture 1).
Cutting one side of a body is easy. Cutting the second side to be EXACTLY the equal side to the first aspect is the tough a part of frame reducing. Using a measuring machine you could reduce lengths appropriately whenever. The FrameCo measuring gadget will connect to any emblem of electrical or guide mitre noticed and could make the cutting of the frames quick and foolproof.
If you have got a saw you could reduce with out the usage of a measuring system. Follow this clean step-by using-step guide to cut mitred lengths on your body:
* Calculate the dimensions of your frame.
* Place the moulding into the saw.
O Cut off a small piece at forty five stages with the noticed in the lefthand role.
* Remove the moulding from the noticed.
O With a tape, degree along the lower back of the moulding, to the duration you require.
To this duration you have to do not forget the scale of the moulding you’re the usage of. So you add to the duration of the facet an quantity same to two times the moulding width – now not which includes the rebate. Then make a pencil mark on the returned of the moulding near the pinnacle so you can see the mark.
O Put the moulding returned within the noticed and align the noticed blade at the pencil mark.
O Swing the saw around and cut the next mitre.
O Place the two pieces again to again so you can transfer the scale you have got just reduce to the again of the moulding duration.
O Repeat the slicing manner for the opposite portions.
Joining the Frame
To make sure a tight and strong joint, glue must be applied, in particular if the frame is large. A light smear of a very good nice PVA glue is all that’s necessary. Although it is viable to buy clamps that join two corners at a time, it is less difficult and faster to clamp all four corners immediately. This lets in you to peer how the corners healthy up before gluing and securing the mitres. There are several types of clamps…
Cord Clamps: This simple, but powerful clamping system works nicely for small to medium-length frames. It includes 4 flexible plastic corners and a period of wire. (See photograph 2).
Metal Strap Clamp: This clamping device is slightly more state-of-the-art and consists of a metal strap, bendy nook pieces and a screw operated tensioning device which permits you to use a large amount of tension so that the corners are pulled collectively tightly. The Strap Clamp is appropriate for big and small frames. (See photo 3).
Once the body is clamped collectively and you’ve made certain all the corners are aligned, then the mitre joint ought to be secured or reinforced. Glue alone is not safe and comfortable sufficient for most sized frames. Here are a few options.
Panel Pins: You can nail a panel pin throughout the mitre. It is beneficial to pre-drill the holes and comfy the joint in a vice before hammering the pins into the frame. Punch home the nail head and fill the hole with a coloured woodfiller.
V-Nails: Professional framers use these v-fashioned staples, which can be inserted the usage of a unique guide or pneumatic joining machine. The “PushMaster” is a DIY model of those machines and is appropriate for low-volume tremendous framing along with required for images or portrait framing.
Biscuit Joints: More appropriate for huge and heavy frames such as mirrors. Most commercial photograph frame mouldings are small and a biscuit joint isn’t vital.
V-Nail Joining Machines
There are several fashions of these machines and all are appropriate for the DIY or low-extent picture framing. Here are a number of the fashions.
PushMaster: Similar to a large punch, the PushMaster is a hand-held, smooth to use device for placing the v-nails into the back of wooden image frames. The vnail is loaded onto the magnetic quit of the PushMaster, sharp end down, then definitely driven into the wood. The v-nail pulls the joint collectively due to the fact it’s miles made from spring metallic. The gain of the PushMaster is that it doubles as a fitting up device. The magnetic tip also can be used to healthy flexipoints and backing nails to comfortable the photograph into the body.
(See image four).
BenchMaster: The BenchMaster is ideal for the extreme DIY framing photographer. The effective cam action of the manage mixed with the heavy obligation Push Master drives v-nails into the toughest of timbers. Its mild hand motion suits joining small or extraordinary-shaped mouldings. If you begin with FrameCo’s Push Master you could improve to the BenchMaster at any time. (See photo 5).
Upon entering the wooden moulding from the base, the edges of the steel v-nail are deflected outwards. As the v-nail pulls back into its authentic form this pulls the joint tightly together. There is a touch curl on the outer main fringe of the nail that locks the nail into the grain of the timber. This stops the nail from pulling out of the quit of the mitre, keeping the joint solid and at ease. The v-nail approach of becoming a member of is the preferred method of expert picture framers. With some easy hand equipment it is viable to achieve the equal result with a minimal outlay in machinery.
Making Multi-sided Frames
With maximum precise satisfactory suspension kind mitre saws there is always the possibility of reducing mitre angles other than forty five stages. The trouble is that the saws do not have a machine of measuring the duration of the cut. The FrameCo measuring machine has a clever scale protected with the unit. It permits you to measure a period for any perspective. A six-sided frame has the six mitres cut at 30 stages, whilst an 8-sided body has the 8 mitres cut at 22.5 stages. The Measure Mate Scale converts the measuring device right into a multi-angled scale so that all of those extraordinary angled mitres may be measured.
So it is feasible for the amateur framer to make attractive multiangled frames that upload style and creativity to your framing.
Finishing and Assembly
Now that the body is joined and the glue joints dry you’re geared up to assemble your hooked up photo into the body. The PushMaster can be used to healthy backing nails or flexipoints into the frame to hold the image into the rebate.